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How Many Watt-Hours Do You Actually Need? A 5-Minute Sizing Guide

The single most expensive mistake power station buyers make is buying on the wrong number. The big number on the box — “2000W!” — tells you almost nothing about how long it lasts. Here’s the five-minute version of getting this right.

Watts vs watt-hours

A 60W CPAP running 8 hours needs 480Wh. A 1,500W space heater running 1 hour needs 1,500Wh. Same battery, wildly different runtimes.

The sizing formula

Wh needed = (device watts × hours of use) ÷ 0.85

The 0.85 is inverter loss — converting the battery’s DC to wall-style AC costs about 15%. If you can run the device from the station’s 12V DC port instead (common for CPAPs and car fridges), use 0.95 instead.

Then add 25–50% headroom for cold weather, battery aging, and the devices you forgot.

Worked example: an outage evening

DeviceWattsHoursWh
Refrigerator (cycling)60 avg12720
Router + modem1512180
3 LED lights305150
2 phones + laptop602120
Total1,170 Wh

1,170 ÷ 0.85 ≈ 1,375Wh — so a 1,500–2,000Wh unit covers a comfortable outage evening with margin. That’s why our home backup picks cluster around 2,000Wh.

Two numbers that trip people up

Where to go next

Frequently asked questions

What's the difference between watts and watt-hours?

Watts measure how fast power flows right now; watt-hours measure the total energy stored. A 60W device running for 10 hours uses 600Wh. Your power station's Wh rating is the tank size, its W rating is how big the tap is.

Why does my power station die faster than the math says?

Three reasons: inverter conversion loses 10–15%, batteries deliver less in the cold, and capacity fades with age. Always size with a 25–50% safety margin.